Burton bindings how to install

The 4x4 pattern consists of two rows of holes, with each row being 4cm apart and each hole in the row being 4cm apart. Four screws are used to mount each binding. The 4x4 system was popular at one point in snowboarding but has mostly been phased out it can sometimes still be found on youth or specialty snowboards.

The 2x4 pattern consists of two rows of holes, with each row being 4cm apart and each hole in the row being 2cm apart. Typically, there are holes per row. As of , the 2x4 pattern is the most common mounting option for non-Burton snowboards. The 3D pattern consists of holes arranged in overlapping triangles, with 8 holes on each end of the snowboard.

Three screws are used to mount each binding in a triangle. Burton included the 3D pattern on their boards manufactured prior to Note: Burton is the only snowboard manufacturer to utilize the 3D hole pattern. It allows nearly infinite binding mounting options. Using two screws per binding, it is possible to adjust stance width, angle, centering, and setback to nearly any setting without the constraints of a four-screw pattern.

Similar to the different snowboard mounting systems, there are a few different snowboard binding interfaces as well. A few of the most common binding types include:. Standard round 4x4 baseplates are the most common non-Burton binding mounting interface and are compatible with 2x4, 4x4, and snowboards featuring The Channel. Round 3D baseplates are only compatible with Burton snowboards manufactured prior to Re:Flex binding baseplates from Burton are considered universal, allowing the bindings to be mounted on 3D, 2x4, and snowboards featuring The Channel.

EST bindings are exclusively designed for use with The Channel and are not compatible with 2x4, 4x4, or 3D hole patterns. Fortunately, many binding manufacturers today offer universal baseplate adapters that allow most combinations of mounting systems and bindings to work together. A big part of mounting bindings is figuring out your stance, and we recommend that you first review The Official Guide to Snowboard Stances to understand all of the different options.

The type of mounting system and the position of the bindings play a significant role in how a snowboard rides and responds to commands, so we asked some expert riders for some recommendations on their binding preferences so you can try them out.

Freeriding is all about experiencing the mountain and enjoying the terrain. Carving groomers, popping side-hits, and exploring secret stashes are all on the menu. Consider medium-stiff Burton Re:Flex bindings for maximum compatibility across your quiver. Having the same angles, front-to-back allows you to ride switch go in whichever direction you want while enjoying the same feeling riding switch or regular.

When riding powder and dropping big lines, a setback stance is almost always the way to go. Starting with the reference stance, shift everything back towards the tail to focus your energy and weight on the back of the board. This approach forces the tail down and lifts the nose of the board up, providing float in deep snow or variable terrain.

Consider stiffer EST bindings for maximum response and control. Goofy vs. How to Wax a Snowboard and other Basic Maintenance. The Burton Guides outline the tools you will need and the steps to take on how to wax a snowboard at home. I like to give the surface of my boards a good clean before I put bindings on them. I usually just clean with a damp paper towel and then make sure that the surface is properly dry using a dry paper towel and then letting it sit for a little while to air dry.

If you want to play it safe, as I do, just stick to water and elbow grease! Make sure that the correct binding is going to be at the front of the board and the correct binding at the back of the board. Another part of your stance is going to be your stance width. This is where the tape measure becomes a valuable tool.

If not, then check out the link below to help you choose the best angles. The footbed might be a little tricky to lift up when you first buy the bindings, in which case you might find it easier to lift them up using a flathead screwdriver. Set up your boots in your bindings and adjust the gas pedal appropriately to fit the contour of your boot. They take a little bit of a combination of force and finesse.

Place the bindings on the snowboard, without disc, over the holes you have chosen for your particular stance. Place the disc in the bindings of the first binding you are mounting at the binding angles you have chosen.

Line up the arrow on the bindings baseplate with the angle you have chosen. Depending on your boot and your boards width, you might want to line up with the center holes or the holes that are closest to the toe edge or the holes that are closest to the heel edge. This will depend on which holes best center your boots toe and heel overhang.

Insert the 4 screws into the 4 hole locations you have chosen for your stance width and boot centering. Loosely tighten each screw one at a time, so that the binding is secure but only loosely tightened. Close the footbeds and measure from the center of one binding to the center of the other. Place your boots in the bindings and tighten the ankles strap. It may be the case that you need to go back in to adjust the boot centering, gas pedal or stance width position.

Tighten the screws properly once everything checks out and then replace the footbeds. There are other adjustments you can make with Burton Re:Flex bindings but all of these can be made with the bindings mounted on the board. At which point I will add it in here. Get the 7 step email series plus other relevant snowboarding emails, review releases, promotions, and information from time to time.

We take your privacy seriously. No spam. See our privacy policy here. Nate is passionate about and loves learning new things everyday about snowboarding, particularly the technical aspects of snowboarding gear.