Boxing in windows with wood

Fiber-cement siding and trim may be lap or shake, board or batten. Cement trim is ideally suited for a variety of exterior corners, windows, columns, doors and more, adding grace and elegance to any style of architecture.

The composition of fiber cement siding makes it rot resistant, impact resistant and imperious to termites. Wood siding can be cedar or pine, lap or shake. Contact a representative at Advanced Roofing and Exteriors to find out more about these products. Porch ceilings can extend the style of the exterior of your project, using vinyl, fiber-cement or wood products to create a variety of styles. This means you can mount them with a variety of methods without fear that the winter freeze will crack or destroy the boxes.

A common technique for no rot composites is to simply bolt the box directly to the house since it can become a part of the house and be properly sealed to be water tight.

Installing Window Boxes Using Brackets. This technique is one of the older techniques and when the flower box is installed during home construction often works well. The main consideration with using brackets to support the window box is making sure that you have symmetrically placed studs underneath the window, otherwise you can end up with the brackets underneath not looking correct or not being attached securely.

One good tip to combat this is to utilize the studs that frame the window out. In almost all situations a window is framed out with studs on either end that run all the way to the floor. This means you typically have two known studs which are symmetrically placed and are there For boxes that only require two brackets this technique can often work without too many issues. Just remember, if the window is longer and the box requires a third or even fourth bracket then there is a chance that there may not be a third or fourth stud directly in the middle, or in the case of four brackets placed evenly.

To mount the brackets you will want to screw them to the house making sure that you drill through the brackets and into the studs with sufficient sized screws or lag screws considering the weight. In some instances the box can merely sit atop the brackets, but for liability reasons screwing through the bottom of the box into the top of the bracket is advisable because there are circumstances where heavy winds can knock the box off the brackets causing it to fall and break or even hurt someone.

This will keep water from getting behind the box and getting trapped between the siding where it can potentially be an issue. If the boxes are going to be left up permanently then they can sit flush to the siding and you can silicone all the way around the box to make it water tight. They assured my this wouldnt get any worse and would cost a bomb to correct, so they put plastic trim around the inside to cover the gap, and outside they pointed up underneath the sill.

Although this filled the gap and my 'mystery bedroom draft' has gone, i am worried that sound is transmitting through it as its clearly a bit thin. Heres my plan to try and reduce the amount of sound coming through my bedroom wall: Get the plaster and the plastic trim off the wall under the window.

Using a bit of MDF, create a box-out around the bay window. It currently has no window sill, so in effect i'll be creating one right the way around. At this point im more concerned with sound proofing than insulation. If i go ahead and create the box around the wall under the window, what is the most effective way of keeping sound at bay?

Or am i going about this all wrong? Hope someone can help. Injecting foam in gap would give better sound insulation, was the gap right across the bay? The gap was almost all the way across the main front facing window. The angled side windows didn't have an obvious gap i could see. When i remove the plastic capping and plaster from around the bay ill make sure i get some foam in there if they fitters didnt do that already. I am more concerned at this point with getting the 'box' put together.

I suspect that even without the gap under the window it would still be quite noisy when the traffic starts picking up. Id like to keep some sound from travelling through that bay wall if at all possible. You'll never get it quiet unless you triple glaze and treat the whole wall but hopefully you'll improve it a bit.

Have you tried the interim 50p solution? StephenW , 18 Aug I did similar when renovating my bedroom. I removed the old lath and plaster under the window, filled with insulation board, built a frame out of 2x4" filled this with insulation board also, made sure any gaps around the window were filled with expanding foam, covered the framework with soundblock plasterboard.

The external noise level is reduced, as is heat loss which was the main reason for the job and I gained a window sill for the cat to sleep on during the day.